Wood Flooring vs Laminate vs Vinyl
Hard flooring divides into a few categories that look increasingly similar and behave very differently, particularly around water and wear.
Solid wood
A single piece of timber throughout its thickness, which means it can be sanded and refinished several times over decades.
It moves with humidity, expanding and contracting seasonally, so it needs expansion gaps and acclimatisation before fitting.
Unsuitable for bathrooms, generally not recommended over underfloor heating, and vulnerable in kitchens where spills are frequent.
The most expensive option and the one that lasts longest if looked after.
Engineered wood
A real timber wear layer bonded to a stable plywood or HDF core. Looks identical to solid wood and moves far less with humidity.
Suitable over underfloor heating and more tolerant of moisture variation, though not of standing water.
Can be refinished a limited number of times depending on the thickness of the wear layer — the specification worth checking, since thin wear layers cannot be sanded at all.
Laminate
A photographic layer under a hard-wearing melamine surface on a fibreboard core. No real timber.
Very scratch-resistant, inexpensive, and cannot be refinished — when it wears, it is replaced.
The core swells if water penetrates the joints and does not recover. Water-resistant grades exist and are better, but a standing leak still destroys it.
Luxury vinyl
A printed design layer with a wear layer, on a flexible or rigid core. Fully waterproof in most modern forms.
Warmer and quieter underfoot than laminate, suitable for bathrooms and kitchens, and works well with underfloor heating.
Quality varies substantially with wear layer thickness, which is the specification that determines how long it lasts in a busy area.
Glue-down, click and loose-lay formats exist, with different subfloor requirements.
Subfloor preparation, which decides the outcome
Every one of these needs a flat, dry, sound subfloor. Unevenness telegraphs through thin products and causes joints to fail on click systems.
Concrete floors need a moisture test before fitting anything, since residual moisture destroys wood and laminate and can lift adhesives.
Timber subfloors need loose boards fixing and may need overboarding.
Underlay affects sound, comfort and warmth, and the wrong specification over underfloor heating insulates the room from the heating.
Choosing by room
Bathrooms and utility rooms: vinyl or tile.
Kitchens: vinyl, tile, or engineered wood if spills are dealt with promptly.
Living rooms and bedrooms: any of them, chosen on budget and preference.
Hallways and high traffic: prioritise wear layer thickness over appearance, because that is what determines how it looks in five years.
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